Exodus

The mass exodus has begun. Its summertime here and schools are letting out and so the expat population in the city is dwindling. The Egyptian population also leaves the city for the north coast in the summer. It’s just too damn hot in the city for anyone.

I'm headed home soon after a week back on the beaches of Sinai.

It seems people can’t get out quick enough. It’s like everyone has senioritis – checking out early. Every week there are several “leaving parties.” I so prefer this term to the American “good-bye parties.” It just sounds better.

I have met some really incredible people here and I am in awe that I now have friends from around the world. Some days, it’s really hard to say goodbye to my Cairo friends. I think about how big the universe is and know I will not see some of these people again. But on my better days, I am reminded that it is a small world after all. I will miss seeing these friends daily but it is so easy to keep in touch now with email and Face Book. And I trust - I know - I will see them when the world comes around again.

My time in Egypt has been one wild ride; a roller coaster with extreme highs and lows and twists and turns and loopty-loops.

I am not the same person who was scared to death on that first cab ride to Mokattam without my trusty driver and friend Hamdy, or the girl who was trampled at Mogamma while trying to get a work visa. By now I am often directing the taxi drivers – in my best Arabic - and showing them short-cuts. Some of the drivers even recognize me as the only Westerner who lives in Mokattam and take me to my door without a word from me.

But have no fear, I am still the same outspoken woman who was brave – or crazy – enough to take the leap to move out here, and who speaks up when I feel it necessary, if people want to hear it or not and who set several Muslim men straight about what this American women will and will not tolerate.

So, I have grown a lot but I have also solidified who I am in many respects. Let’s hope I made the right choices on when to grow and when to stand my ground. Only time and the next roller coaster ride will tell.

Good Buys!

Haha. I bet some of you who did not read the title closely thought this would be a sappy post about how hard it is for me to say good bye to this place.

Nope.

Not yet anyway.

As I pack to prepare for my July 1st departure, I am struck by what a good packing job I did almost 9 months ago.

Come on, I have my own blog and delusions about the multitudes who read it I can be a little conceited if I want to be. So indulge me for just a few more posts.

There are some things I wish I brought with me. Like I wish I brought more of my wardrobe here. I get tired of seeing myself in the same shirts all the time. And some nonperishable foods like stove top stuffing or canned cranberry sauce would have been a nice treat every once in a while. But, I learned to do without, or at least wait patiently for a shipment from home.

Very little of what I did bring with me went to waste. There's one pair of shoes I brought that I wore only once or twice. So they will remain here as a gift to the bawaabs wife. If you don't wear'em in 9 months you don't need'em.

However, there are three purchases that stand out as particularly smart and useful.

1. Travel Bags. These ziplock wardrobe bags to pack and store your clothes. You can fit like 10 dress shirts or 6 pairs of pants in there then roll it up and squish all the air out and save a ton of space. They are really great and cheap.

2. Swiss Army Knife. Despite the number of self-inflected injuries and scars I have from this tool (too embarrassing to enumerate here) it was really a great and one of my smartest purchases. I cannot think of a week that has gone by that I have not used at least one of these cleverly stored tools. Scissors, screw drivers - Phillips and flat head, knives, and a cork screw.

What other tool do you need?

3. My Egyptian wedding ring. My ring of choice the ubiquitous Bostonian piece of Americana (at least for us Irish girls) the claddagh ring.

This ring served dual purposes for me here. (1) It successfully fended off advances from taxi drivers, bawaabs, "security" guards, waiters, street urchins and other undesirable men as the Egyptian men really only show respected to married women. Everyone else is "unprotected" and therefore seems to be fair game. I tried my best to have fun making up fake husband stories, but honestly it got exhausting at times. I'd forget his name or profession or how many kids we had. It was tough to keep straight. FYI, having a fake Egyptian husband is more respectable here - i.e. stops harassment quicker - than having a fake American husband. (2) My choice of the claddagh ring won me favor and attention from the hot ex-pat men of Celtic decent from Scotland, Ireland and the occasional American who knew the ring.

It repels undesirable men, attracts desirable ones. Again I ask you, what other tool does a single women need?

For the uninitiated: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Claddagh_ring

Cheers!

Cairo is officially “pig-free”!

I assure you they only counted the 4-legged ones.
Now that Obama has left the country, I can get back to my other Egyptian media obsession: the swine flu hysteria. About two weeks ago the Egyptian Health Ministry proudly announced that all of the pigs in Cairo had been slaughter ahead of schedule. Much local and international media attention was given to the completely unnecessary and ill-advised pig slaughter. It turned into a fiasco.

For weeks we saw new reports of the slaughter and the protests by farmers and animal rights activists on the front page of all of our papers. It was supposed to be done by veterinarians and the farmers were supposed to be reimbursed for their losses and able to sell the pork meat. There were some reports of farmers being paid a small amount, but then others retorted, if they could sell the meat they shouldn’t be paid twice. In the end, we saw appalling video on youtube and news stations of pigs being corralled into dump trucks and massive graves and being buried alive. It was horrendous. Eventually, even the Muslim clerics, who despise pigs as unclean animals, spoke out against the unholy way the poor beasts were being slaughtered.

Of the few restaurants in town that served pork products, almost all have taken it off the menu. Despite the fact that all international health organizations say cooked pork is perfectly safe. I have also heard rumors that restaurants will be fined if they are caught serving pork. How can a farmer sell the pork if the restaurants aren’t allowed to serve it?!?!

At the same time, there was a newspaper article educating consumers about how to tell the difference between pork and other meat products to address the fears that butchers or restaurants might be trying to trick you into eating the unsafe and unclean pork, supposedly to save money.

It’s a moot point now however as there is no pork meat available, anyway. It was all buried alive you morons.

There seems to be no end to the insanity!

Unfortunately it goes on. We hear news reports about all the safety measures that the Egyptian airport security is undertaking to keep swine flu out of the country, and to keep us all safe. Stories of the masked and gloved health workers standing next to unmasked ungloved immigration officers abound. All passengers from countries with confirmed cases of swine flu are subject to health screenings. Who could ever keep that list straight and up-to-date? We hear reports of disposable thermometers being re-used on multiple people at airport check points; and thermal-image scanning employed to detect anyone who may have a fever. Passengers with a Mexican visa stamp were to be detained without question.

It gets worse! There were newspaper story of a British family (husband, pregnant wife and four young children ages 2 – 8 yrs) being ushered out of the airport by gunpoint – yes I said gunpoint – and quarantined in one hospital room for 48 hours as they were all tested and then cleared for swine flu. This family was singled out because they had been in Mexico six months ago. I have read at least three other horrendous stories just like this, tourists or business people being escorted out of the airport by armed guards because they are suspected to have the flu.

The whole thing is a bit of over kill in humble my opinion. I am not trying to minimize the swine flu at all. Really I am not. But by all accounts it is just the flu for most people. Yes, I know lots of people have died from this flu worldwide. And Massachusetts has been hit hard with several school closing and lots of fear. However, all the world health experts advise if people just used common and universal health precautions (like washing hands regularly, etc) you greatly reduce your risk.

Despite all of Egypt’s efforts including the thermal imaging and masks and gloves at the airport and the extermination of pigs, it looks like the virus has entered the cityanyway.

Egypt has finally admitted they have identified their first cases of swine flu in the country. (I personally believe there were more and earlier cases of swine flu due to the fact that newspapers were increasingly reporting new cases of bird flu in the Egyptian countryside. But that’s my own conspiracy theory. Let’s get back to “facts” as reported in the local newspapers.)

Blame the Americans!

No, they did not accuse Obama of bringing the swine flu. But the day before he arrived they identified the first case of the flu in a young Egyptian-American child who had just returned from a vacation in America. And just today, two American college students at AUC were diagnosed and the whole dorm of 140 students has been quarantined.

I truly fear what will come next in this country regarding this flu outbreak. Good thing I am leaving in 20 days.

Obama in Cairo - Part 2

He came. He spoke. He inspired. W alaykum al salama. [The proper response to the greeting Assalaamu alaykum Obama’s welcoming offer – literally translating “Peace be with you. And also peace with you.”] This was the headline of a local paper after Obama’s visit and speech last Thursday.

Last time we spoke, I was trying desperately to secure tickets to Obama’s speech in Cairo. After a few frantic and unproductive phone calls the White House and Uncle Teddy directly - Yes, of course I mean Senator Ted Kennedy. Who else would you have called at a time like this?!

OK, if any of you reading this seriously doubt that I actually made these phone calls from here and asked for tickets, you really don’t know me at all and should probably stop reading now.

After these efforts still failed to produce a coveted seat to the show, I resigned myself to finding a place to watch it on TV, like the rest of the world. I reluctantly but wisely decided against trying to spy the motorcade from the street. Honestly, all of the major streets in Cairo were closed to ALL traffic and pedestrians. Many businesses closed for the day due to the anticipated traffic problems; and schools in Giza (near Cairo University) and throughout Cairo closed. The British School declared it national Obama Day.

We had live TV coverage here and I gleefully watched President Obama skip down the stairs off Air Force One; and watched as the motorcade drove down the empty main streets of Cairo escorted by military men on horse back; and cringed as the Egyptian military band did their best to squeak out the American national anthem. By the time President Obama walked out on stage at Cairo University and beamed a huge smile to the world and uttered “Assalaamu alaykum” I cheered with tears in my eyes with the rest of Cairo and the world (I imagine).

By all accounts here it was a very smart and well received speech. I’ve waited to write again until after speaking with several different people about it. It seems to me that expats from all over the world and Egyptians from all walks of life (that I could ask) appreciated the speech and the visit. Simple but very important markers of respect stuck out in the Egyptian’s minds – that Obama spoke Arabic (or at least tried); he showed an understanding and appreciation of Islam and its contributions to the world; he took off his shoes when he visited a mosque – and Hillary respectfully wore a head scarf. Hamdy even commented on Obama’s big smile and many talk about how charismatic he is and they pray that he is sincere. I heard secondhand what a powerful and moving experience it was to be in the audience at Cairo University. It sounds like it was electric with positive energy and hopes. Even the Egyptian Grand Mufti Sheikh Ali Gomaa spoke highly of American President Barack Obama’s address to the Muslim world in Cairo, describing the speech as a positive indicator of a new era of good relations between the US and the Arab and Muslim world.

Everyone seems pleased with his presence and his words they just patiently await the actions to follow.

Some other fun comments include:“I wish Obama would come everyday. It only took me 3 minutes to get to work instead of 30. The streets are empty and our street has been cleaned up, the paintings on the Military Academy’s mural has been washed so you can actually see the scenes from the Sixth of October war … thank you Obama

Obama in Cairo - Part 1

President Obama is addressing the Muslim world from Cairo on June 4th. I really tried to wait to post anything about this until after the speech but with all the preparations around town I just couldn’t hold my tongue any longer.

As some of you know, I totally predicted that Obama would come see me because he was disappointed I could not make it to the inauguration earlier this year. And it appears to be true. Seven months from the day that I voted and boarded a plane for Cairo, Obama will join me here.

I invited him to stay with me in Mokattam. But I think he saw my recent blog posts about my beautiful and “pig-free” neighborhood, because he declined.

And unfortunately, my invitation to any of the Obama events has been lost in the mail. But I am getting ahead of myself.

For the past month, there have been daily articles in all of the newspapers speculating and lobbying for (1) the perfect location for the speech; (2) speculating and coaching for what he might say or should say to the Muslim world; and (3) even a few dissenting arguments – not in the mainstream government papers of course – for why Obama should not speak from Cairo at all - presumably endorsing the Mubarak government.

Finally this week, decisions and schedules were announced and true preparations made public. It’s actually shocking to me how much of the Presidents calendar the general public is aware of – you’d think that the secret service would do a better job of keeping that secret.

But, here’s what we know so far:
He’s staying in Saudi Arabia the night before. (Everyone agrees that this is a safer location to spend the night then Cairo. I wish someone told me that before I moved to Cairo.)
1. He arrives in Cairo at 10 am.
2. Meets with President Mubarak in his palace.
3. Then goes onto Cairo University for the speech.
4. Finally meeting with the US Embassy after this.
5. And leaving Cairo by 6 pm. (Clearly Cairo really isn’t a safe place to sleep.)

We hear reports of efforts to clean the streets and communities the US President’s motorcade will be traveling to or through and that all these streets will be closed during his visit. As unrealistic as that sounds given the amount of territory that Mr. President will be traveling it is totally feasible and expected that this will happen. My office is not far from Murbarak’s palace and any time he goes for a jaunt all of the main streets are closed to traffic and to pedestrians.

So unlike in the US, supporters or detractors or demonstrators of any kind are not allowed on the street. I hear mixed messages from my Egyptian friends as to what to expect from security on the street the day of the visit. I want to go to Cairo University and greet the motorcade even if I can’t get in to the speech. They blast the calls to prayer everyday I’m sure they can handle broadcasting the President’s speech on loud speakers in the area. Alas, I am nervous about being caroled far from the location and not seeing anything but maybe the back of a police van.

RELAX!!! I’m not that stupid.

Security reports are insane. Some say there will be 10,000 police here protecting the President including Egyptian and US forces. Others report there aren’t even 10,000 trained police in the whole country. They discuss having snipers on top of all the building along the travel route. Already there are reports of about 300 foreign students having been “detained and questioned forcefully by police as a “precaution.” (For some these precautions illustrate perfectly the human rights abuses in Egypt.)

The media is having a field day! Rumors of all types are rampant. Last night the evening “news” reported a change in venue of the speech, citing all sorts of reasons, security, larger location, to fool the terrorist, etc. I highly doubted the change given that they already started cleaning one part of town they would never have time to clean up two parts of the city at the same time. All of this was disproved with later “news” reports.

We even had advertising executives in the office today trying to sell full and half page ads in their papers to any businesses who would write a “XYZ Company welcomes President Obama to Egypt!”

It’s an exciting and crazy time here. Even more Cairo-crazy then usual. But mostly in a good way. For the most part, everyone seems really excited about the visit and upcoming speech. All of the Egyptians I know love Obama or are at least hopeful about his presidency. Most of the newspaper reporters or commentators however caution against full fledge support just yet; and I continually read that, “actions speak louder then words.”

Unfortunatley, I have had NO luck in securing a ticket to any of the invitation only events. I have tried many avenues but I just do not have any connections here that would help me in this way. If you want a deal on a children’s laptop computer I can help there, or even a free beer I can help with that but otherwise I got nothin.

But, I still have about 36 hours to figure something out though. Wish me luck!

The People in Your Neighborhood

This is post consists of photos taken within a one block radius of my apartment in Mokattam. There are of course nicer neighborhoods in Cairo than mine. There are however also worse areas. Makes you, or at least me, grateful for what I do have. Enjoy.

Yes, somebody lives here. Whole families live in each home pictured.

The Heat!

Yes, it’s HOT here. Some have been wondering what the weather is like here now. It’s HOT. Typically it’s in the high 90s everyday. Today 100 and tomorrow predicts 105. And temps are only going to continue to rise.

Yeah, to all of you who say, “But, it’s a dry heat!” Yes, it could be worse. But, a pizza oven is dry too ya' know. I don't care what any one says, dry, humid, whatever 105 degrees - is really freakin’ HOT.

The mornings start out deceptively nice, in the 70s with a nice breeze. But it heats up quickly. The breeze usually lasts throughout the day but in the sun this just feels like a hot hair drier blowing on you. The breeze only offers relief in the shade, which is surprisingly cool. But in the heat of the day, even children lounge in the shade like lethargic slugs.

The buildings do stay cool thankfully. The marble that I cursed in the winter for freezing me out is now my savior. And if you keep the windows and shades drawn it’s almost bearable inside.

The heat and day-light savings time forces everyone change their natural-body schedules. People just want to sleep due to the heat and often nap in the late afternoon. Young children come out to play in the streets after sunset 8:30ish and play long after I’ve gone to bed. The evening meal is delayed even later then usual – you cannot cook in this heat. So in turn everyone is sluggish again the next morning.

Interestingly enough, the young Muslim women DO wear the cute little tank tops and fashionable short-sleeve shirts. However, they also wear another shirt underneath it like a spandex body suit that covers them from the neck to the wrists – believe it or not. And of course they are still wearing head scarves and older women still wear the full abayya (covering) – often in black. I don’t know how they do it?!?! I sweat just looking at them.

The men often wear gallabayas – the long shirts that look like dresses. This is often a class distinction however; the lower or working class and general laborers wear this year round. Professional, white collar working men typically wear western dress.

Gallabayas

Me? I’m still trying to keep up respectable and conservative appearances, at least at the office. I wear Capri or long pants, occasional long skirt and three-quarter length sleeves.
Once at home the shorts and tank tops come on though! The funny thing is that is exactly what the Egyptian women do at home too. In the privacy of their own homes and as long as there are no unrelated men around they can wear anything they want - and they do.