Mokattam Hills

I live in the Mokattam Hills area of Cairo. For weeks now I have been lamenting about what Mokattam Hills lacks. The list is long and varied. I find it a difficult neighborhood especially for a foreigner to live alone. One quirk that makes is particularly challenging is I have seen Mokattam spelt at least 4 different ways and is pronounced both Mo-Attaam and MoKAHtum. It makes it tough to get a taxi home when I spend most of my free time in more hospitable neighborhoods.

But, in an effort to learn more about this place I live and hopefully find some redeeming qualities or maybe even some hidden treasures I signed up for a tour of the Hills. First, I learned that the pyramids were built with stones quarried from this mountain. And second, I learned that according to a Bible story a miracle occurred on this very mountain. According to the story, in approximately 979 AD St. Simon the Tanner physically moved this mountain by prayer and faith alone.

Watch out, I am going to quote the Bible here.
Matthew 17:20, "If you have faith as small as a mustard seed, you can say to this mountain, `Move from here to there,' and it will move. Nothing will be impossible for you."

Well they were standing on and talking about this very mountain, Mokattam Hills. And according to the story, it moved, an earthquake occurred and the sun could be seen between the earth and the mountain.

At the foot of Mokattam Hills, a monastery has been built in honor of St. Simon and this miracle. You drive through Garbage City (more on that in another post) and you enter the monastery which consists of about 3 or 4 churches carved into or out of the mountain itself, including the Cave Church, and very impressive carvings of Bible stories depicted in the mountain. Some pictures are here, but you can also check out this website for more info.
http://www.cavechurch.com/

The Holy Family's escape through Egypt.

So although I did not find any new coffee shops or restaurants or potential people-meeting places in my neighborhood, I learned a new appreciation for the mountain and land on which I live.

Burn's Night

My multicultural education continues. This weekend I attended my first Burn's Night, which commemorated the 250th birthday of Scotland's poet laureate, Robby Burns. This event is celebrated in Scottish communities worldwide.

This Burns Night was hosted by Laird Derrick and Lady Jacqui, seen below "addressing the haggis."

The event includes a traditional dinner of haggis, neeps and tatties. Yeah, I didn't know what any of that was either before dinner and I thought it best not to look too closely at the recipes before trying it. Everything was really good, even the haggis - really.

It also includes manly men in kilts (don't dare call them skirts) reciting poetry. It was really fun! It's like dinner theater only a lot funnier. Each man was assigned a Burns poem to recite. More than one person said they wished they got their assignment the week before so they could practice. And many of them knew verses of all the poems and recited them along as well. They also broke into song several times. It was really a lot of fun!

I can't think of any sing-a-long songs like that in America. Not unless you count, "Sweet Caroline" that's played at the end of the night to close several bars in Boston; or the ubiquitous chant, "Yankees Suck!" regardless of the event going on at Fenway. These guys had a song for everything.

There was even original poetry recited by bard Roy. I have included it below. As you’ll see I am learning two languages here: Arabic and Scottish-English.

Enjoy and Cheers to Roy and all the Lairds and Lasses!

Ode to Sakara Gold Beer

Sakara is a wonderful drink
It gets ye drunk and makes ye think,
In fact it is a work of art
It makes ye burp and swear and fart

Cans or bottles ye can get
Cool, refreshing, bubbly and wet.
Even draught is in some places
It puts a smile on people’s faces

So’ Efter work – head tae the bar
Just get pished and leave the car.
And remember ! that I warned yer
To keep away fae “Scotties corner”

Another Sakara will help you out
When you canny walk or shout.
So Gulp it Doon until yer burstin
Sakara fairly quenches thirstin’

Sakara makes you clever too
Another language comes oot yer Moo’
Cos when you’ve had, a few at night
Ye start to speak a load of shite

Och! “Gies another” I’m on a mission
“And a dozen cans for the fishin”
With Sakara gold in the pub
Ye Forget aboot yer work or GRUB.

Then stagger hame – tae watch the telly
With a big Sakara golden belly,
And fall asleep to dream of lasses
Filling up Sakara Glasses

So’ Next time you are feeling low
Sakara Gold will make you glow
Cheers to you all – young and old
Ye canna beat Sakara Gold

Roy – Cairo 2008

Cairo view: "Obama Good"

What an amazing and historic day for America and the world! For the first time ever the leader of the free world is an African American man.

I was glued to the TV most of the day. I am 7 hours ahead of the eastern time zone. So at mid day I watched the sun rise over the Capitol and light dawn on the spectators who had been gathering since 4 am reporters said. I watched his swearing in and struggled to hear his speech. I fell asleep just after midnight as the high school bands had just opened the parade. And I awoke early this morning, and watched the President and First Lady dance the night away as I prepared for work.

Today, I live vicariously through friends reports who are in D.C. If I was in the states, I would be there with them camping out on a couch. I was in D.C. for Clinton's 2nd Inauguration. It was a lot of fun. It won't surprise you to know that I snuck into the ticketed area without a ticket for that one. You can't fence me in - or out. I'm sure security was much more intense today - as were the crowds. Simply spectacular to see.

My Obama moment was a simple but powerful one. On the way home tonight about 9 pm, I stopped to pick-up my ironing. (Yes, I send my shirts out to be ironed. So what? You would too if you were here. It costs less then a quarter per shirt!) Anyway, as I was saying, the young laundry man does not speak English at all. As I entered his shop he greets me with a huge smile and says, "Obama! Good!" and gives me a thumbs up sign. I return his smile and thumbs up and say, "Aiwa (yes) good." He thumbs at a small TV that sits on a stool at the end of the ironing board that he stands and works at for more then 12 hours a day and repeats, "Obama! Good!" Sure enough, it's Obama's inauguration on his TV too. He may not have understood the words, but he clearly grasped the larger significance of it.

"Obama! Good!"

Braggin' about the Beave!

OK I know this blog is supposed to be about my trip to Egypt. However, my brother, Bob, a.k.a. The Beave, had a very exciting week and I’m going to take this opportunity to brag about him.

As you know, Beave is a chef at the Ritz Carlton on Grand Cayman Island. Well, this past weekend they hosted the Cayman Island Cookout with world famous celebrity chefs – including Anthony Bourdaine. You can see this website for info on “The Caribbean’s premier epicurean event.” http://www.caymanislands.ky/cayman_cookout/

The only time I have ever heard Beave be humble about anything is when he talks about cooking. Here is his account of events:

“All the big guys had dinner with us tonight and came back to the kitchen to thank us for a great meal. And, yes I met Anthony B tonight as well. We've been busy all week preparing for this event and we'll be busy all week-end as it gets under way. There's talk of a cocktail reception or social gathering so we can mingle with the stars. more on that if it develops. Otherwise, we will be working closely together over the next few days. That should be interesting.”

So, anyone who knows and loves Beave, knows that a Food TV show of his own is cannot far behind. Who wouldn’t love to watch that character mess about in the kitchen?!

Cheers Beave! Cheers!

Recommended Reading

I know there are a lot of book lovers reading this blog out there. And I read all the time. I always have, but here I have even more reading time on my hands (see previous posts on waiting on taxis all day). So I thought I'd share some of what I've enjoyed reading lately - all Egypt or Middle Eastern related. Enjoy!


First, the Girls of Riyadh by Rajaa Alsanea is a fabulous read. It's advertised as Sex in an Arab City, and it's about young women in Saudi trying to find love. It's reads as a thoroughly enjoyable beach-read novel. BUT, the more I get to know the women at the office the more I see that this book is right on for how women are viewed and treated, and view themselves in a modern Arab city. Seriously, my top choice so far - quick and fun.


Second, another women's study suggestion (sorry guys), Khul-Khad by Nayra Atiya is a biography of 5 Egyptian women in Cairo in the 1970s and 80s. Some of it is a bit dated. But read in conjunction with the above suggestion, it is shocking how much has NOT changed.


No God But God by Reza Aslan is a study of the past, present and future of Islam. NO, I am not converting to anything! Just educating myself. And this was a very good and readable overview.


And finally (for now), Taxi by Khaled Al Khamissi. I couldn't resist this one. It's dialogues with Cairo taxi drivers. Personally, I think this would be an interesting and entertaining read in any major city worldwide. It's hysterical and infuriating at times and oh so true. This will not make me sympathize with the drivers, nor fall for their tricks and cons for more money. But it was a fun read.


All are available on Amazon and no I do not get any advertising kickbacks. I'll let you know if I come across any other must reads, and feel free to share what's on your nightstand these days.

In the News

I've gotten a lot of questions about the fighting in Gaza and Egypt's involvement and/or the potential changes in the climate here. First, I want to assure everyone that I am several hundred miles from the Egypt/Gaza border and I am safe. And despite the American media reports of demonstrations or worse yet riots in Cairo, I have not seen any evidence of this myself. We watch and read the news and are concerned here too just as you. But as far as I can see, it is pretty much life as usual here - crazy but typical Cairo life. Just like in America, life goes on as usual despite the number of conflicts our troops are involved in worldwide.

If the situation changes in Cairo, I am registered with the US embassy here and they will let me know if it's time to go.

You can read our daily news coverage if you're interested, here
http://www.egyptiangazette.net.eg/

In other news as reported by the Egyptian Gazette, they plan to close the Mogamma office building (see previous post on my nightmare experience there). I have to say I feel a sense of vindication and relief about this closure - apparently the building is condemned as well. They hope to sell it to a hotel. Maybe that's where the new Ritz will go?

More from the news of the weird: in a suburb of Cairo called Wadi Delga there is a new ordinance that all donkeys in the street need to wear diapers. Yes, I said diapers. Donkeys are used all over the city to carry goods to markets. Apparently the donkey droppings in the street are upsetting or turning off some tourists or so the local government thinks. So, instead of encouraging people who should know better to watch where they are walking - your not in Kansas anymore - they are requiring poor farmers to buy ridiculous nappies. Sorry no offense to the Kansans out there, you probably already knows how to avoid cow paddies. DUH!

And finally, some photos from the New Year's Eve Ball. Although these photos were not published in the paper yet, they probably should have. Enjoy!

A true Scotsman

and the Fairy God Parents