The People in Your Neighborhood

This is post consists of photos taken within a one block radius of my apartment in Mokattam. There are of course nicer neighborhoods in Cairo than mine. There are however also worse areas. Makes you, or at least me, grateful for what I do have. Enjoy.

Yes, somebody lives here. Whole families live in each home pictured.

The Heat!

Yes, it’s HOT here. Some have been wondering what the weather is like here now. It’s HOT. Typically it’s in the high 90s everyday. Today 100 and tomorrow predicts 105. And temps are only going to continue to rise.

Yeah, to all of you who say, “But, it’s a dry heat!” Yes, it could be worse. But, a pizza oven is dry too ya' know. I don't care what any one says, dry, humid, whatever 105 degrees - is really freakin’ HOT.

The mornings start out deceptively nice, in the 70s with a nice breeze. But it heats up quickly. The breeze usually lasts throughout the day but in the sun this just feels like a hot hair drier blowing on you. The breeze only offers relief in the shade, which is surprisingly cool. But in the heat of the day, even children lounge in the shade like lethargic slugs.

The buildings do stay cool thankfully. The marble that I cursed in the winter for freezing me out is now my savior. And if you keep the windows and shades drawn it’s almost bearable inside.

The heat and day-light savings time forces everyone change their natural-body schedules. People just want to sleep due to the heat and often nap in the late afternoon. Young children come out to play in the streets after sunset 8:30ish and play long after I’ve gone to bed. The evening meal is delayed even later then usual – you cannot cook in this heat. So in turn everyone is sluggish again the next morning.

Interestingly enough, the young Muslim women DO wear the cute little tank tops and fashionable short-sleeve shirts. However, they also wear another shirt underneath it like a spandex body suit that covers them from the neck to the wrists – believe it or not. And of course they are still wearing head scarves and older women still wear the full abayya (covering) – often in black. I don’t know how they do it?!?! I sweat just looking at them.

The men often wear gallabayas – the long shirts that look like dresses. This is often a class distinction however; the lower or working class and general laborers wear this year round. Professional, white collar working men typically wear western dress.

Gallabayas

Me? I’m still trying to keep up respectable and conservative appearances, at least at the office. I wear Capri or long pants, occasional long skirt and three-quarter length sleeves.
Once at home the shorts and tank tops come on though! The funny thing is that is exactly what the Egyptian women do at home too. In the privacy of their own homes and as long as there are no unrelated men around they can wear anything they want - and they do.

Partying at the Pyramids!

Last night we partied at the pyramids! Seriously!

This is one of the coolest things I have ever done. OK, I know I say that a lot on this blog. But honestly, it’s all true. I am continually amazed, thankful and grateful for the remarkable, wonderful – and sometimes wild and crazy – adventures I have had here in Egypt. But this is definitely a lifetime highlight.

Officially it was called Dinner in the Desert an annual ball hosted by the Cairo Rugby Club, an expat and yes rugby club here in Cairo. Unofficially, I call it one of the best and most unique parties I have ever attended in my life.


Pictures cannot capture all that I saw, felt and expereinced. But, some are attached anyway for you viewing pleasure.

Location. Location. Location.

This black tie event (open to personal interpretation), catered by the J.W. Marriott was situated at the foot of the pyramids. We had an incredible dinner with the Sphinx! This dinner would have impressed any foodie - even for a banquet dinner. We had a succulent seafood salad, filet mignon and chocolate fudge cake.

Then we were entertained by a fabulous Jazz Band orchestra, a DJ, and “Cairo’s favorite funk band Crash, Bang, Wallop.” We danced all night long - at the pyramids!

If you’re not impressed yet – you haven’t been paying attention. I said, we had a freaking huge fantastic party AT THE PYRAMIDS!

To fully appreciate this you need to know that the pyramids typically are closed at night. Yes, I said closed. Visitors are kicked out about 6 pm. Then there’s a sound and light show – yeah a laser show (without the Grateful Dead music) projected onto the pyramids most nights but that ends by 9 pm. Then they go dark. They are not illuminated all night like the Washington Monument or Eiffel Tower would be. Electricity is expensive you know. :-)

So this was truly a unique experience. We had the whole area to ourselves. And we packed the dance floor and showed we truly enjoyed and appreciated the opportunity.

It was AN INCREDIBLE AND UBELIEVABEL experience!

Swine Flu and Garbage City

There are no cases of swine flu in Egypt. There is no evidence that the flu is spread by pigs. It is a human illness spread from humans to humans. Despite all of these known facts, the Egyptian government has decided to slaughter all of the 300,000 pigs in the Egypt, just as a precaution. Despite international health officials reports the swine flu virus that has caused worldwide fear is not transmitted by pigs, and that pig slaughters do nothing to stop its spread.

I figure every news station is talking about the Swine Flu I might as well chime in too and share with you Egypt's irrational and badly planned solution to "protect" itself.

Link to news articles: http://www.egyptiangazette.net.eg/gazette/world/detail_0_0.shtml

Many see this move to slaughter the pigs as just another form of discrimination against the minority Christians who raise pigs. The majority Muslim community in Egypt does not eat port for religious reasons.

In Cairo, the vast majority of pigs are raised by the Coptic Christian community in Garbage city called the Zebaleens. The Zabaleen are employed by the city to collect the garbage; and have been doing so for almost 100 years. The estimated population of Garbage city is 60-70,000 people. They live at the foot of Mokattam Hills. They make a living by sorting the trash, mostly by hand in the first floors of their homes and selling recycled materials (paper, plastic, cardboard, glass, steel, everything) to other vendors. They use the food waste to feed livestock such as pigs and chickens that are raised in the same area – typically the roof of their homes. It is reported that the Zebaleen recycle 80-90% of what they collect – which much higher than any “modern city’s” waste management system.

If you look closely at the photo you can see the goats on the roof of the building among the piles of sorted trash.

The newspaper goes on, “The pigs will be culled in “specialized slaughter houses [read: not the current Zebaleen-run businesses]…and the pig farmers will just get the animals back as frozen meat…there may be talks about compensation later. There have already been reports of pigs being kidnapped and killed and farmers not getting anything in return - as a matter of national security.

The Egyptian government goes on to say that within two years the pigs will return, but we need first to build new farms [read: government run and controlled, and will take many more then 2 years; and allah only knows what will happen with the organic waste in the meantime]. In the meantime armed police are stationed outside some of Cairo's pig farming areas, to stop pig farmers trying to smuggle out and hide their pigs [read: save their livelihood].”

There is an active community-organizing volunteer group called The Association for the Protection of the Environment APE working in Garbage city. I hope they are working with the community on this latest insult. They offer a variety of programs including health and safety, education, income generating cottage industries such as paper and rag recycling, weaving and sewing programs for women and composting and recycling, children’s education and nutrition through nursery and afterschool programs, English-language study, health clinics. You can can support their efforts by buying some of their beautiful handmade products from their website at http://www.ape.org.eg/ If you want save on shipping costs you can place your orders with me. :-)

Stay safe and healthy!

An APE worker.