Exodus

The mass exodus has begun. Its summertime here and schools are letting out and so the expat population in the city is dwindling. The Egyptian population also leaves the city for the north coast in the summer. It’s just too damn hot in the city for anyone.

I'm headed home soon after a week back on the beaches of Sinai.

It seems people can’t get out quick enough. It’s like everyone has senioritis – checking out early. Every week there are several “leaving parties.” I so prefer this term to the American “good-bye parties.” It just sounds better.

I have met some really incredible people here and I am in awe that I now have friends from around the world. Some days, it’s really hard to say goodbye to my Cairo friends. I think about how big the universe is and know I will not see some of these people again. But on my better days, I am reminded that it is a small world after all. I will miss seeing these friends daily but it is so easy to keep in touch now with email and Face Book. And I trust - I know - I will see them when the world comes around again.

My time in Egypt has been one wild ride; a roller coaster with extreme highs and lows and twists and turns and loopty-loops.

I am not the same person who was scared to death on that first cab ride to Mokattam without my trusty driver and friend Hamdy, or the girl who was trampled at Mogamma while trying to get a work visa. By now I am often directing the taxi drivers – in my best Arabic - and showing them short-cuts. Some of the drivers even recognize me as the only Westerner who lives in Mokattam and take me to my door without a word from me.

But have no fear, I am still the same outspoken woman who was brave – or crazy – enough to take the leap to move out here, and who speaks up when I feel it necessary, if people want to hear it or not and who set several Muslim men straight about what this American women will and will not tolerate.

So, I have grown a lot but I have also solidified who I am in many respects. Let’s hope I made the right choices on when to grow and when to stand my ground. Only time and the next roller coaster ride will tell.

Good Buys!

Haha. I bet some of you who did not read the title closely thought this would be a sappy post about how hard it is for me to say good bye to this place.

Nope.

Not yet anyway.

As I pack to prepare for my July 1st departure, I am struck by what a good packing job I did almost 9 months ago.

Come on, I have my own blog and delusions about the multitudes who read it I can be a little conceited if I want to be. So indulge me for just a few more posts.

There are some things I wish I brought with me. Like I wish I brought more of my wardrobe here. I get tired of seeing myself in the same shirts all the time. And some nonperishable foods like stove top stuffing or canned cranberry sauce would have been a nice treat every once in a while. But, I learned to do without, or at least wait patiently for a shipment from home.

Very little of what I did bring with me went to waste. There's one pair of shoes I brought that I wore only once or twice. So they will remain here as a gift to the bawaabs wife. If you don't wear'em in 9 months you don't need'em.

However, there are three purchases that stand out as particularly smart and useful.

1. Travel Bags. These ziplock wardrobe bags to pack and store your clothes. You can fit like 10 dress shirts or 6 pairs of pants in there then roll it up and squish all the air out and save a ton of space. They are really great and cheap.

2. Swiss Army Knife. Despite the number of self-inflected injuries and scars I have from this tool (too embarrassing to enumerate here) it was really a great and one of my smartest purchases. I cannot think of a week that has gone by that I have not used at least one of these cleverly stored tools. Scissors, screw drivers - Phillips and flat head, knives, and a cork screw.

What other tool do you need?

3. My Egyptian wedding ring. My ring of choice the ubiquitous Bostonian piece of Americana (at least for us Irish girls) the claddagh ring.

This ring served dual purposes for me here. (1) It successfully fended off advances from taxi drivers, bawaabs, "security" guards, waiters, street urchins and other undesirable men as the Egyptian men really only show respected to married women. Everyone else is "unprotected" and therefore seems to be fair game. I tried my best to have fun making up fake husband stories, but honestly it got exhausting at times. I'd forget his name or profession or how many kids we had. It was tough to keep straight. FYI, having a fake Egyptian husband is more respectable here - i.e. stops harassment quicker - than having a fake American husband. (2) My choice of the claddagh ring won me favor and attention from the hot ex-pat men of Celtic decent from Scotland, Ireland and the occasional American who knew the ring.

It repels undesirable men, attracts desirable ones. Again I ask you, what other tool does a single women need?

For the uninitiated: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Claddagh_ring

Cheers!

Cairo is officially “pig-free”!

I assure you they only counted the 4-legged ones.
Now that Obama has left the country, I can get back to my other Egyptian media obsession: the swine flu hysteria. About two weeks ago the Egyptian Health Ministry proudly announced that all of the pigs in Cairo had been slaughter ahead of schedule. Much local and international media attention was given to the completely unnecessary and ill-advised pig slaughter. It turned into a fiasco.

For weeks we saw new reports of the slaughter and the protests by farmers and animal rights activists on the front page of all of our papers. It was supposed to be done by veterinarians and the farmers were supposed to be reimbursed for their losses and able to sell the pork meat. There were some reports of farmers being paid a small amount, but then others retorted, if they could sell the meat they shouldn’t be paid twice. In the end, we saw appalling video on youtube and news stations of pigs being corralled into dump trucks and massive graves and being buried alive. It was horrendous. Eventually, even the Muslim clerics, who despise pigs as unclean animals, spoke out against the unholy way the poor beasts were being slaughtered.

Of the few restaurants in town that served pork products, almost all have taken it off the menu. Despite the fact that all international health organizations say cooked pork is perfectly safe. I have also heard rumors that restaurants will be fined if they are caught serving pork. How can a farmer sell the pork if the restaurants aren’t allowed to serve it?!?!

At the same time, there was a newspaper article educating consumers about how to tell the difference between pork and other meat products to address the fears that butchers or restaurants might be trying to trick you into eating the unsafe and unclean pork, supposedly to save money.

It’s a moot point now however as there is no pork meat available, anyway. It was all buried alive you morons.

There seems to be no end to the insanity!

Unfortunately it goes on. We hear news reports about all the safety measures that the Egyptian airport security is undertaking to keep swine flu out of the country, and to keep us all safe. Stories of the masked and gloved health workers standing next to unmasked ungloved immigration officers abound. All passengers from countries with confirmed cases of swine flu are subject to health screenings. Who could ever keep that list straight and up-to-date? We hear reports of disposable thermometers being re-used on multiple people at airport check points; and thermal-image scanning employed to detect anyone who may have a fever. Passengers with a Mexican visa stamp were to be detained without question.

It gets worse! There were newspaper story of a British family (husband, pregnant wife and four young children ages 2 – 8 yrs) being ushered out of the airport by gunpoint – yes I said gunpoint – and quarantined in one hospital room for 48 hours as they were all tested and then cleared for swine flu. This family was singled out because they had been in Mexico six months ago. I have read at least three other horrendous stories just like this, tourists or business people being escorted out of the airport by armed guards because they are suspected to have the flu.

The whole thing is a bit of over kill in humble my opinion. I am not trying to minimize the swine flu at all. Really I am not. But by all accounts it is just the flu for most people. Yes, I know lots of people have died from this flu worldwide. And Massachusetts has been hit hard with several school closing and lots of fear. However, all the world health experts advise if people just used common and universal health precautions (like washing hands regularly, etc) you greatly reduce your risk.

Despite all of Egypt’s efforts including the thermal imaging and masks and gloves at the airport and the extermination of pigs, it looks like the virus has entered the cityanyway.

Egypt has finally admitted they have identified their first cases of swine flu in the country. (I personally believe there were more and earlier cases of swine flu due to the fact that newspapers were increasingly reporting new cases of bird flu in the Egyptian countryside. But that’s my own conspiracy theory. Let’s get back to “facts” as reported in the local newspapers.)

Blame the Americans!

No, they did not accuse Obama of bringing the swine flu. But the day before he arrived they identified the first case of the flu in a young Egyptian-American child who had just returned from a vacation in America. And just today, two American college students at AUC were diagnosed and the whole dorm of 140 students has been quarantined.

I truly fear what will come next in this country regarding this flu outbreak. Good thing I am leaving in 20 days.

Obama in Cairo - Part 2

He came. He spoke. He inspired. W alaykum al salama. [The proper response to the greeting Assalaamu alaykum Obama’s welcoming offer – literally translating “Peace be with you. And also peace with you.”] This was the headline of a local paper after Obama’s visit and speech last Thursday.

Last time we spoke, I was trying desperately to secure tickets to Obama’s speech in Cairo. After a few frantic and unproductive phone calls the White House and Uncle Teddy directly - Yes, of course I mean Senator Ted Kennedy. Who else would you have called at a time like this?!

OK, if any of you reading this seriously doubt that I actually made these phone calls from here and asked for tickets, you really don’t know me at all and should probably stop reading now.

After these efforts still failed to produce a coveted seat to the show, I resigned myself to finding a place to watch it on TV, like the rest of the world. I reluctantly but wisely decided against trying to spy the motorcade from the street. Honestly, all of the major streets in Cairo were closed to ALL traffic and pedestrians. Many businesses closed for the day due to the anticipated traffic problems; and schools in Giza (near Cairo University) and throughout Cairo closed. The British School declared it national Obama Day.

We had live TV coverage here and I gleefully watched President Obama skip down the stairs off Air Force One; and watched as the motorcade drove down the empty main streets of Cairo escorted by military men on horse back; and cringed as the Egyptian military band did their best to squeak out the American national anthem. By the time President Obama walked out on stage at Cairo University and beamed a huge smile to the world and uttered “Assalaamu alaykum” I cheered with tears in my eyes with the rest of Cairo and the world (I imagine).

By all accounts here it was a very smart and well received speech. I’ve waited to write again until after speaking with several different people about it. It seems to me that expats from all over the world and Egyptians from all walks of life (that I could ask) appreciated the speech and the visit. Simple but very important markers of respect stuck out in the Egyptian’s minds – that Obama spoke Arabic (or at least tried); he showed an understanding and appreciation of Islam and its contributions to the world; he took off his shoes when he visited a mosque – and Hillary respectfully wore a head scarf. Hamdy even commented on Obama’s big smile and many talk about how charismatic he is and they pray that he is sincere. I heard secondhand what a powerful and moving experience it was to be in the audience at Cairo University. It sounds like it was electric with positive energy and hopes. Even the Egyptian Grand Mufti Sheikh Ali Gomaa spoke highly of American President Barack Obama’s address to the Muslim world in Cairo, describing the speech as a positive indicator of a new era of good relations between the US and the Arab and Muslim world.

Everyone seems pleased with his presence and his words they just patiently await the actions to follow.

Some other fun comments include:“I wish Obama would come everyday. It only took me 3 minutes to get to work instead of 30. The streets are empty and our street has been cleaned up, the paintings on the Military Academy’s mural has been washed so you can actually see the scenes from the Sixth of October war … thank you Obama

Obama in Cairo - Part 1

President Obama is addressing the Muslim world from Cairo on June 4th. I really tried to wait to post anything about this until after the speech but with all the preparations around town I just couldn’t hold my tongue any longer.

As some of you know, I totally predicted that Obama would come see me because he was disappointed I could not make it to the inauguration earlier this year. And it appears to be true. Seven months from the day that I voted and boarded a plane for Cairo, Obama will join me here.

I invited him to stay with me in Mokattam. But I think he saw my recent blog posts about my beautiful and “pig-free” neighborhood, because he declined.

And unfortunately, my invitation to any of the Obama events has been lost in the mail. But I am getting ahead of myself.

For the past month, there have been daily articles in all of the newspapers speculating and lobbying for (1) the perfect location for the speech; (2) speculating and coaching for what he might say or should say to the Muslim world; and (3) even a few dissenting arguments – not in the mainstream government papers of course – for why Obama should not speak from Cairo at all - presumably endorsing the Mubarak government.

Finally this week, decisions and schedules were announced and true preparations made public. It’s actually shocking to me how much of the Presidents calendar the general public is aware of – you’d think that the secret service would do a better job of keeping that secret.

But, here’s what we know so far:
He’s staying in Saudi Arabia the night before. (Everyone agrees that this is a safer location to spend the night then Cairo. I wish someone told me that before I moved to Cairo.)
1. He arrives in Cairo at 10 am.
2. Meets with President Mubarak in his palace.
3. Then goes onto Cairo University for the speech.
4. Finally meeting with the US Embassy after this.
5. And leaving Cairo by 6 pm. (Clearly Cairo really isn’t a safe place to sleep.)

We hear reports of efforts to clean the streets and communities the US President’s motorcade will be traveling to or through and that all these streets will be closed during his visit. As unrealistic as that sounds given the amount of territory that Mr. President will be traveling it is totally feasible and expected that this will happen. My office is not far from Murbarak’s palace and any time he goes for a jaunt all of the main streets are closed to traffic and to pedestrians.

So unlike in the US, supporters or detractors or demonstrators of any kind are not allowed on the street. I hear mixed messages from my Egyptian friends as to what to expect from security on the street the day of the visit. I want to go to Cairo University and greet the motorcade even if I can’t get in to the speech. They blast the calls to prayer everyday I’m sure they can handle broadcasting the President’s speech on loud speakers in the area. Alas, I am nervous about being caroled far from the location and not seeing anything but maybe the back of a police van.

RELAX!!! I’m not that stupid.

Security reports are insane. Some say there will be 10,000 police here protecting the President including Egyptian and US forces. Others report there aren’t even 10,000 trained police in the whole country. They discuss having snipers on top of all the building along the travel route. Already there are reports of about 300 foreign students having been “detained and questioned forcefully by police as a “precaution.” (For some these precautions illustrate perfectly the human rights abuses in Egypt.)

The media is having a field day! Rumors of all types are rampant. Last night the evening “news” reported a change in venue of the speech, citing all sorts of reasons, security, larger location, to fool the terrorist, etc. I highly doubted the change given that they already started cleaning one part of town they would never have time to clean up two parts of the city at the same time. All of this was disproved with later “news” reports.

We even had advertising executives in the office today trying to sell full and half page ads in their papers to any businesses who would write a “XYZ Company welcomes President Obama to Egypt!”

It’s an exciting and crazy time here. Even more Cairo-crazy then usual. But mostly in a good way. For the most part, everyone seems really excited about the visit and upcoming speech. All of the Egyptians I know love Obama or are at least hopeful about his presidency. Most of the newspaper reporters or commentators however caution against full fledge support just yet; and I continually read that, “actions speak louder then words.”

Unfortunatley, I have had NO luck in securing a ticket to any of the invitation only events. I have tried many avenues but I just do not have any connections here that would help me in this way. If you want a deal on a children’s laptop computer I can help there, or even a free beer I can help with that but otherwise I got nothin.

But, I still have about 36 hours to figure something out though. Wish me luck!

The People in Your Neighborhood

This is post consists of photos taken within a one block radius of my apartment in Mokattam. There are of course nicer neighborhoods in Cairo than mine. There are however also worse areas. Makes you, or at least me, grateful for what I do have. Enjoy.

Yes, somebody lives here. Whole families live in each home pictured.

The Heat!

Yes, it’s HOT here. Some have been wondering what the weather is like here now. It’s HOT. Typically it’s in the high 90s everyday. Today 100 and tomorrow predicts 105. And temps are only going to continue to rise.

Yeah, to all of you who say, “But, it’s a dry heat!” Yes, it could be worse. But, a pizza oven is dry too ya' know. I don't care what any one says, dry, humid, whatever 105 degrees - is really freakin’ HOT.

The mornings start out deceptively nice, in the 70s with a nice breeze. But it heats up quickly. The breeze usually lasts throughout the day but in the sun this just feels like a hot hair drier blowing on you. The breeze only offers relief in the shade, which is surprisingly cool. But in the heat of the day, even children lounge in the shade like lethargic slugs.

The buildings do stay cool thankfully. The marble that I cursed in the winter for freezing me out is now my savior. And if you keep the windows and shades drawn it’s almost bearable inside.

The heat and day-light savings time forces everyone change their natural-body schedules. People just want to sleep due to the heat and often nap in the late afternoon. Young children come out to play in the streets after sunset 8:30ish and play long after I’ve gone to bed. The evening meal is delayed even later then usual – you cannot cook in this heat. So in turn everyone is sluggish again the next morning.

Interestingly enough, the young Muslim women DO wear the cute little tank tops and fashionable short-sleeve shirts. However, they also wear another shirt underneath it like a spandex body suit that covers them from the neck to the wrists – believe it or not. And of course they are still wearing head scarves and older women still wear the full abayya (covering) – often in black. I don’t know how they do it?!?! I sweat just looking at them.

The men often wear gallabayas – the long shirts that look like dresses. This is often a class distinction however; the lower or working class and general laborers wear this year round. Professional, white collar working men typically wear western dress.

Gallabayas

Me? I’m still trying to keep up respectable and conservative appearances, at least at the office. I wear Capri or long pants, occasional long skirt and three-quarter length sleeves.
Once at home the shorts and tank tops come on though! The funny thing is that is exactly what the Egyptian women do at home too. In the privacy of their own homes and as long as there are no unrelated men around they can wear anything they want - and they do.

Partying at the Pyramids!

Last night we partied at the pyramids! Seriously!

This is one of the coolest things I have ever done. OK, I know I say that a lot on this blog. But honestly, it’s all true. I am continually amazed, thankful and grateful for the remarkable, wonderful – and sometimes wild and crazy – adventures I have had here in Egypt. But this is definitely a lifetime highlight.

Officially it was called Dinner in the Desert an annual ball hosted by the Cairo Rugby Club, an expat and yes rugby club here in Cairo. Unofficially, I call it one of the best and most unique parties I have ever attended in my life.


Pictures cannot capture all that I saw, felt and expereinced. But, some are attached anyway for you viewing pleasure.

Location. Location. Location.

This black tie event (open to personal interpretation), catered by the J.W. Marriott was situated at the foot of the pyramids. We had an incredible dinner with the Sphinx! This dinner would have impressed any foodie - even for a banquet dinner. We had a succulent seafood salad, filet mignon and chocolate fudge cake.

Then we were entertained by a fabulous Jazz Band orchestra, a DJ, and “Cairo’s favorite funk band Crash, Bang, Wallop.” We danced all night long - at the pyramids!

If you’re not impressed yet – you haven’t been paying attention. I said, we had a freaking huge fantastic party AT THE PYRAMIDS!

To fully appreciate this you need to know that the pyramids typically are closed at night. Yes, I said closed. Visitors are kicked out about 6 pm. Then there’s a sound and light show – yeah a laser show (without the Grateful Dead music) projected onto the pyramids most nights but that ends by 9 pm. Then they go dark. They are not illuminated all night like the Washington Monument or Eiffel Tower would be. Electricity is expensive you know. :-)

So this was truly a unique experience. We had the whole area to ourselves. And we packed the dance floor and showed we truly enjoyed and appreciated the opportunity.

It was AN INCREDIBLE AND UBELIEVABEL experience!

Swine Flu and Garbage City

There are no cases of swine flu in Egypt. There is no evidence that the flu is spread by pigs. It is a human illness spread from humans to humans. Despite all of these known facts, the Egyptian government has decided to slaughter all of the 300,000 pigs in the Egypt, just as a precaution. Despite international health officials reports the swine flu virus that has caused worldwide fear is not transmitted by pigs, and that pig slaughters do nothing to stop its spread.

I figure every news station is talking about the Swine Flu I might as well chime in too and share with you Egypt's irrational and badly planned solution to "protect" itself.

Link to news articles: http://www.egyptiangazette.net.eg/gazette/world/detail_0_0.shtml

Many see this move to slaughter the pigs as just another form of discrimination against the minority Christians who raise pigs. The majority Muslim community in Egypt does not eat port for religious reasons.

In Cairo, the vast majority of pigs are raised by the Coptic Christian community in Garbage city called the Zebaleens. The Zabaleen are employed by the city to collect the garbage; and have been doing so for almost 100 years. The estimated population of Garbage city is 60-70,000 people. They live at the foot of Mokattam Hills. They make a living by sorting the trash, mostly by hand in the first floors of their homes and selling recycled materials (paper, plastic, cardboard, glass, steel, everything) to other vendors. They use the food waste to feed livestock such as pigs and chickens that are raised in the same area – typically the roof of their homes. It is reported that the Zebaleen recycle 80-90% of what they collect – which much higher than any “modern city’s” waste management system.

If you look closely at the photo you can see the goats on the roof of the building among the piles of sorted trash.

The newspaper goes on, “The pigs will be culled in “specialized slaughter houses [read: not the current Zebaleen-run businesses]…and the pig farmers will just get the animals back as frozen meat…there may be talks about compensation later. There have already been reports of pigs being kidnapped and killed and farmers not getting anything in return - as a matter of national security.

The Egyptian government goes on to say that within two years the pigs will return, but we need first to build new farms [read: government run and controlled, and will take many more then 2 years; and allah only knows what will happen with the organic waste in the meantime]. In the meantime armed police are stationed outside some of Cairo's pig farming areas, to stop pig farmers trying to smuggle out and hide their pigs [read: save their livelihood].”

There is an active community-organizing volunteer group called The Association for the Protection of the Environment APE working in Garbage city. I hope they are working with the community on this latest insult. They offer a variety of programs including health and safety, education, income generating cottage industries such as paper and rag recycling, weaving and sewing programs for women and composting and recycling, children’s education and nutrition through nursery and afterschool programs, English-language study, health clinics. You can can support their efforts by buying some of their beautiful handmade products from their website at http://www.ape.org.eg/ If you want save on shipping costs you can place your orders with me. :-)

Stay safe and healthy!

An APE worker.

An Improper Woman

Well, we all knew that!

Come on. I work for a women’s college that should’ve been your first clue. But if not, talk with my parents or grandparents, they will tell you any proper woman would have been married and filling their hearts with fat, happy grandchildren by now. Or ask any of my former boy friends or girl friends. I’m sure they could tell you a tale or two.

Egyptians, however, are just learning what type of improper American woman I am.

As you all know some fabulous friends visited me here in Cairo recently, Mr. Mark and Mrs. Anne Kennedy (See previous post: Nile Jule). Well on the 2nd night of their visit, we were woken by a call at 1:30 am by CEO Junior who is the so-called manager of the “guest house” where I live. I was informed that, “It is against Egypt’s policy and the policy of this house to have male guests stay in the apartment with female residents.”

Um. Excuse me? You are calling me in the middle of the night to tell me what?! As I try to rub the sleep out of my eyes and brain, he informs me that the security men downstairs have told him that a man entered my apartment a few hours ago and has not left yet. He repeats his “policy” statement and expounds on proper behavior for a woman.

Um. OK. There is no doubt in my mind that this strict Muslim man expected me to apologize profusely and say it would never happen again.

But, um, yeah. That ain’t my style - especially when you wake me up and insult me. Over the next 20 minutes I proceed to tell him exactly what I thought about him calling me an “improper woman.”

It went something like this:
You have the nerve to call me in the middle of the night and accuse me of going against Egypt?! You have no idea who this man even is! Maybe he’s my brother (he’s not); maybe he’s family (he is - in the American definition that friends are like family). You just call me and accuse me of going against guest policies that you never informed me of. I have lived in filthy Mokattam for 5 months and now in the middle of the night you want to discuss polices! I want a written copy of these house policies.

Oh Miss Julie you are acting very defensive. If this person is your brother it is no problem.

SORRY. You don’t get off that easy, you woke me up man – I HATE being woken up - and accused me of immoral behavior – which I am not even participating in (or enjoying) at the moment. SO, if you think I’m acting defensive you have misunderstood me. - I’m pissed off!

I continued:
I have done nothing wrong. Nor am I ashamed of any of my behavior. And it’s none of your or anyone else’s damn business who is in my apartment at any hour – DAMN IT. Don’t you watch Desperate Housewives and Sex in the City?! If not you must be the only Egyptian to miss this educational TV. Cause let me tell you, everyone else here seems to think all of us foreigners will sleep with anyone regardless of what they say or do, or even their lack of basic hygiene.

Yeah. I’m sure a “proper woman” would never have spoken to anyone in that way. But alas, it is clear I am not such a woman.

It did not go well for CEO Junior that night. Nor the next morning when I called CEO Senior and told him everything. The final response, “No problem Miss Julie your friends are welcome to stay as long as you like. Please enjoy your holiday.”

There are no “morality police” in Egypt like there are in other Arab countries. (See these links about Saudi Arabian religious police http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/middle_east/1874471.stm or http://www.freerepublic.com/focus/chat/2231296/posts ) But clearly some people like to take it upon themselves to fill this role. I have had friends harassed at hotels when men and women share a room – regardless of the known, unknown or suspected sleeping arrangements, or martial status. Egyptians must always travel with their marriage certificate. I have heard of brides and grooms being turned away from their hotel room on their wedding night – still dressed in their wedding clothes – for not having the proper documentation that says they can share a room.

And yet, these “police” have no problem with women – Egyptian and foreigners – being glared at, taunted and harassed constantly on the street.

My reaction to CEO Junior may seem harsh to some. But a woman - or more specifically this woman - can only take so much of this hypocrisy. This is a culture that supports a man having 4 wives and you still want to monitor the comings and goings of guests in my apartment?! Well, get your notebooks ready. I'll give you something to talk about.

So hell yeah, I will relish in the joys of being a proud and “Improper Woman.” I am thankful that I can be and will continue to be such a woman for all those who cannot.

An Independent Woman

I bet some of you thought, “Wow! What an independent (and crazy) woman Julie is to be moving off to the Middle East by herself.”

I know I thought that – probably even a bit too arrogantly. But since I arrived here I have felt anything but independent – really.

I am continually shocked at how many different people I need to rely on to get anything done here. At times it’s maddening. I just want to do whatever it is by myself and get it over with – but I can’t. I honestly can’t do everything I need and want to do alone. And that is really hard for me to admit and accept. It is something that I struggle with daily here. I try to see it as a growth experience, and clearly one I need to learn because it just keeps coming up. But I will honestly admit I’m an impatient student at times.

A really good example of this came up when I was planning for a long weekend away. I just wanted to get out of the city and see something new. It started with talking with my Arabic speaking coworker, who then volunteered to call her travel agent friend to get me the best hotel deal on this holiday weekend. It took about 3-4 calls between the two and in turn the hotel of their choice to get me an $80/night room for $45.

I then had to call a friendly driver I know and ask him to go to the train station and buy me a train ticket and to arrange to pick me up the morning of my departure. Train tickets must be purchased in advance in person at the train station, only. It’s much easier to hire someone who knows what their doing and where they are going then to get a taxi there and back myself.

I then had to arrange for another taxi to take me to the above mentioned travel agent to pick up the hotel “voucher.” The voucher is this handwritten piece of paper that says I have paid the travel agent the agreed upon price and guarantees me a room when I arrive at the hotel. These vouchers are required. VERY few hotels accept online reservation; and everyone prefers cash.

Since I was dealing with a new taxi driver with limited English and my Arabic is still lacking, I then had to enlist a neighbor to translate and help direct the driver to a location where I had never been before. And just for good measure the helpful apartment building security guard looked on and chimed in as he saw fit regarding directions - in Arabic-only of course.

At the travel agency there were two men both named Mohamed awaiting my arrival – late of course. Believe it or not I haven’t been on time for anything since I got here which is SO unlike me. But the Egyptian time warp story is for another day. So these two businessmen could not complete one task without the other - it was a little like Laurel and Hardy. “Pass me the phone, no the other phone that is actually closer to me then you. I can’t find the number dial this number for me. I have a pen but where is the voucher receipts?” It was weird. They of course called back the hotel again to finalize everything. They gave me a story about, “Oh you’re late. Not sure we can guarantee that same rate anymore, blah, blah, blah.” They did.

I count 8 people and I still haven’t gone anywhere yet!

It's exhausting. Oh, and I can’t forget the call to the coworker’s family who lives in this new location who will be my “tour guide” upon arrival. That’s 9!

Admittedly, and thankfully not all outings are this complex but this is a pretty typical experience.

I am truly grateful for all those that help me every day. Really I am. I could not get things done without them. And some of these helpers have become good friends, likeShaimaa and Hamdy (who you’ve heard a lot about).

But some days I long for the ability to just hop in my own car and just go.

Welcome Spring - Alexandria

Despite never being in Alexandria before, my first visit felt nostalgic.

Alex is a short 2.5 hour train ride north. It is a much smaller city than Cairo, only about 3 million people. I found it more manageable as it appears to be planned on a basic grid-system. It’s cleaner and quieter. And it hugs the coast of the Mediterranean Sea. It reminded me of so many coastal cities I have lived before – Boston, San Diego, Honolulu, Portland, Old Orchard Beach.

I shake my head every time I try to figure out how the heck I end up in one of the biggest cities in the world in the middle of the desert. ??? And yet here I am, making the best of my crazy life.

I had a nice visit in Alex. Thankfully, I had a local guide to show me around to the sites, the cafes, and the local fish restaurants - where they cook everything in the street. I thought their citadel looked an awful lot like Castle Island in South Boston.















I was there for the first day of Spring which is a national holiday here. The beaches and boardwalks and parks were PACKED on this day and except for the clothing it look a lot like San Diego or OOB on the first warm day of the season. The streets are full of cruising cars and everyone is joyous and festive.

The only difference is the sunbather’s costumes. Muslim women will sit on the beach fully dressed, head scarf and all; if they swim at all they will do so also fully dressed or wear a bathing suit that looks like a full-length diver’s wetsuit. Men wear whatever they want, of course.

At these city beaches it was almost exclusively Egyptians. Not wanting to be the only foreigner in a “normal” bathing suit, I chose not to swim. I get too much unwanted attention as it is - no need to add more skin to the equation. But no worries.

Instead, I learned that they don’t really like swimmers at 1 am. It’s “forbidden” apparently. But in Egypt a little baksheesh – tipping – goes a long way; and I blissfully frolicked in the Mediterranean Sea in the cover of darkness, and under the glaring eyes of only one security guard instead of hundreds.

It was chilly but TOTALLY worth it.

Nile Jule

This past Easter holiday, I cruised the Nile with

some great friends from home. Anne and Mark

Kennedy definitely win the award for best friends of 2009 for making trek out here. And what a fabulous way to see Egypt - on a cruise ship with good friends.

After a few days touring Cairo, we flew to Aswan and saw Lake Nasser – largest manmade lake in the world created by the High Dam which was built to control the annual floods of the longest river in the world.

Our cruise ship, which looked like an old steamship on the Mississippi was appropriately named The Nile Jewel http://www.italianexpresscruises.com/.

We sailed with the current north (the Nile flows from Lake Victoria to the Mediterranean Sea) towards Luxor and stopped along the way to see temples and ruins like Philae, Edfu, Ko Ombo and Elephantine Island. We lounged in the sun, played cards and drank beer and rum as we watched the lush Egyptian landscape pass by. It is striking how green the Nile Valley is and how stark the desert and mountains are in the distance.




The Easter bunny travelled with us. :-)

In Luxor we sweltered in the heat to see the spectacular Valley of the Kings tombs, Hatshepsut's Temple - where one of the world’s first female cross-dresser was king, Luxor and Karnak Temples - where kings and queens partied and prayed, the Avenues of Sphinxes and Rams, and of course took the obligatory horse and carriage ride through the city.

It was truly a fabulous trip with some really great friends.