Giving Thanks in the Western Desert

I hope you all enjoyed your Thanksgiving Holidays as much as I did.

I joined a expat tour group for a American Thanksgiving in the Western Desert this past weekend. It was a fabulous trip! The scenery was amazing. See pictures below. And I met a lot of great people who were happy to offer help to a newbie.

I had no idea the desert was so diverse!

We climbed sand dunes like you see in the movies, parts of it looked like the American southwest canyon lands, the Black Desert is made from volcanic magma, and the White Desert filled with limestone rock formations that are 350 million years old. It was staggering! We swam in hot springs, had turkey dinner with a local Bedouin band, toured the Bahariya oasis, and saw the recently discovered greco/Roman golden mummies.

Enjoy!

Khan al-Khalili

Today I ventured to Khan al-Khalili - a mega market if there ever was one. I have no idea how the shopping King Chris and I missed this place the first time around. He would have loved it.
It is a maze of small shops that goes on for miles. It has been a center of trade since the 14th century.

It had everything from tourist trinkets of stuffed camels and paperweight pyramids, to gold, silver and precious stone jewelry, brass and copper, hand bags, clothes galore - eastern and western styles, rugs, shoes, home goods, cleaning supplies, you name they have it. If not in their shop, they’ll send a young boy to run and find it for you. (Yes, that's a picture of a woman in a burkha buying bras on the street.)

The vendors were a bit aggressive, “Miss! Miss! What do you want to buy today?” I said nothing, just photos today. “Nothing. I have nothing. What color do you want?” So, they also have a sense of humor and a few were interested in chatting.

Mostly, I got jostled around for a couple of hours. I happily walked in circles through the maze. And when the vendors starting saying welcome back and I actually recognized them as well I knew it was time for a break. So I stopped in a café. When I stopped for lunch the vendors came right into the restaurant to continue selling. And the cats were begging at my feet for something too.

I did buy a couple of things, mostly because I heard Chris in my head talking about how much fun it is. And it was.

Cairo Weather

I hear they are predicting snow at home. So I thought this would be a good time to discuss the weather here in Cairo. ;-)

It is winter here too you know. During the day it gets up to about high 70s to low 80s. But when the sun goes down it cools off quickly and its down right chilly when you wake up in the morning - high 50s to low 60s. I know you al will laugh in envy at me saying that low 60s is chilly but it's true. And there is almost a constant 10-15 mph wind that cools everything right down.

The best description truly is like camping in northern New England in July or August. It's nice and hot during the day but at night you're gonna want a sweatshirt and to be sittng next to a warm campfire.

So right now it is no burden at all to wear long pants or skirts and long sleeve shirts everyday. Everyone here is wearing sweaters and scarves especially when tey go out at night. I even see some winter coats already.

Honestly, I am not sure I packed enough warm clothes. My office can be quite cold during the day. In the school I work the hallways are open to envirnonment. (Picture schools in California - or 90210 - where the hallways are outside.) So, when the wind blows in the courtyard it's like sitting under and ac vent all day long. And the "floor matrons" - like teacher's aides - sit in the hallway all day long. I know they are thankful for their coats and head scarfs.

I'm not complaining in the least. This is my year of the endless summer. And I am grateful there is no snow shoveling in my immediate future. Enjoy whatever weather you may have today. And we'll check back on weather again in March or April when things really start to heat up.

Egyptian Food

Egyptian food is famous for its appetizers, called mezza. There's several kinds of dips, like hummus, tahina, and babaghanoush all served with freshly baked pita bread for dipping. There's also stuffed grape leaves and fallafal and a variety of salads and cheeses. You can make a whole meal out of hot and cold mezzas alone.

For main courses there are all the usual suspects - "mixed grille" is common with grilled chicken, beef and seafood, and kebabs, and kofta which is like a spicy meatball kebabs. And there are delicious "oriental pastries" what we would call danish or stuffed croissants. Everything that I have had so far has been great. I've enjoyed it all.

One thing interesting that I learned is that Egyptians have breakfast - typically foul and bread (a bean dip like refried beans and pita bread) - then they have small snacks all day and have a big "lunch" at 5 pm after work and then "dinner" again much later in the night 9 - 10 pm. My stomach has not yet adjusted to this time frame. Tourists and foreigners eat whenever we want.

Yes, there are the ubiquitous American fast food chains - KFC, McDonalds, Pizza Hut, etc. But none of these can compare to the uniquely Egyptian fast food "khousary." Khousary is this delicious concoction of pasta, rice, lentils and chick peas served with tomato sauce and those fried onions you thought were only good for that green bean casserole at Thanksgiving. The picture does not do it justice. You have to trust me on this one it's really a filling, delicious and satisfying meal. And you can get a huge plate of khousary, cold mezzas, and a pepsi for 5LE - that's less than $1.

I’ve already become friends with my khousary-man. There are 3 to choose from within walking distance of my apartment, but I’ve already picked out the best one. I’ll be saving a table for visitors.

The Egyptian Museum

I am quite proud of myself today. I ventured down to the Egyptian Museum all by myself. I truly hailed my own taxi to and fro. And with my trusty Arabic phrase book we were able to get going.

I was charged more than twice what an Egyptian would pay for the same trip. But, I knew that would be the case and figured it’s just part of the experience and I suppose my duty as a “rich” American living abroad. However, I was a bit annoyed when the driver fawned he did not have change for me and wanted 5 LE (Egyptians pounds) as baksheesh (tip) on top of the 20 LE he was getting for over charging me in the first place. All said and done, I still paid only about $8 (US dollars) each way for a trip halfway across town. A virtual bargain.

I strolled around the museum for several hours. I also walked along the Nile a bit and stumbled into a shopping plaza for lunch. I thoroughly enjoyed the lunch, of shawarma chicken sandwich fries and babaghanoush.

Sorry, no pictures allowed in the Museum. So you'll have to check out their website. www.egyptianmuseum.gov.eg There are literaly, hundred of thousands of artifacts, including King Tut's treasures, and real mummies, even animal mummies, monoliths, and a recreation of hte Rosetta stone. (The original Rosetta Stone is in the Bristish Museum in London from when they "looted" the place years ago.)

It’s not so much the museum that is the accomplishment today. Although I really enjoy that place and will go back many times, I am sure. It’s that I ventured out alone. Up until now I have always had an escort of some type or another. But, it’s like making that first cold call to recruit some one in the study. (Or ripping a bandaid off for those non-researchers readers.) Once you get the first one over with the rest are easy – you know you can do it now. So, I'm already thinking about my agenda for next weekend.

My Work Day

My work day here probably isn't much different than in America. Except our work week here is Sunday to Thursday, with Friday and Saturday for the weekend.

Right now I work with only one school. There will eventually be four to five in the study. Hamdy, my faithful driver, usually picks me up about 9 am. But if there is traffic or if someone more important than me (anyone else) needs the car, I am picked up late. No problem. No one else seems to mind so why should I. Just going with the flow here.

The school I work with is called Futures Tech. It is a private school with moderate tuition fees. (I’ll have both public and private schools in the study eventually). Future Tech enrolls children in Kindergarten thru High School and is located in a 3 building complex. I work only with the primary/elementary school age children. I have a small office on the 2nd floor and constantly hear children working and playing. Right now I’m still working out the details of the research design – I am looking at the use of technology in the classroom and how it helps with learning.

I have to admit this is the most technologically advanced school I have ever seen in my life – in ANY country. It has by far more technology than any of the Boston Public Schools I have spent so much time in over the past few years. All the kids at Future Tech have their own laptops, all the classrooms all have “Smart Boards” – computer linked white boards that act as an LCD and a chalk board (but can save or erase work with the click of a button); there are so many computers everywhere – lab, library, hallway - and they have a “Robolab”; and the children all have Memory Sticks around their necks like latch-key kids!!!

But I’m getting carried away; I have to save something for month 8 and the final report. However, I really am curious if the schools of say Newton-Wellesley have this much technology per child. It’s staggering.

I observe some classes when I can and some of the students are learning my name. “Hello, Miss Julie. Giggle, giggle, giggle.” I am trying to learn their names, but there are so many faces, it’ll take me awhile. Everyone is so warm, welcoming, friendly and helpful. It’s really a nice place to work.

I’m pretty busy now trying to finalize a plan that may or may not work with the other 3 schools. But it’s off to a good start. And it’s nice to work out all the kinks in the plan at a familiar location. I worked with the Kindergarteners at Future Tech last year. And it’s fun to see some of their faces in the 1st grade this year. Although the ones I remember the most were the ones who were traumatized by the English vocabulary testing (PPVTs) I did with them last year. For their sake and mine, I have no plans to repeat anything like that in this study.

At the end of the school day, about 3 pm, I check in with Hamdy. If he is available, he takes me home. If not I take a taxi (see previous post about taxi riding). Or I visit with my friend Shiamaa, the Admin, until Hamdy is free. I usually get home by 4 or 5. And then set off for an adventure in dining.

il hamdu allah - TV

il hamdu allah - (thank god) I found the TV room.
I know some of you out there are saying what the hell is she doing watching TV? She should be out enjoying Cairo, living it up.

Well, do any of you know how tiring it is to suck the marrow out of life and live in the Now all the time?!?!?! It’s freaking exhausting! So, do not begrudge me one small vice of the occasional CNN and American re-runs. OK and the chocolate Halloween candy that the kids so graciously lined my pockets with before I left. But who’s counting.

I was down right giddy when my neighbor showed me the locked room off the lobby that housed a gorgeous and large sectional sofa and a huge satellite TV. Honestly, we spent more time trying to talk then watch anything really. But, it’s nice to know the TV is there when I need a break. Mostafa is a young engineering student who lives next door with his two roommates. They are all very nice and we try to communicate in broken English and they try to teach me some Arabic words. As anyone who has tried to do this before knows most of the conversations are pretty simple and revolve around myths about American culture (they asked, half-jokingly, if I was in the Mafia) and American pop-culture – which I forgot to study up on before leaving. Anyone who knows me in America knows I am not savvy at all with pop music and current films.

But it’s a start anyway.

Obama in Cairo

Several people have asked about how the US election of Barack Obama is being received here in Egypt. It is all very positive, thankfully. I am very grateful that he won, not only for my own safety and reception here in the Middle East, but it helps A LOT. Many people here, as in the US, saw McCain as another Bush – whom by the way the pretty much hate, in case there was any question about that.

I was on a plane overnight from Nov 4 until the early morning (US time) on the 5th. So we did not get confirmation of Obama’s win until we landed. Those who I spoke with on the plane were feeling confident that he would win. I was hopeful but nervous.

I spoke with an Egyptian man who has lived in the US for 7 years now. He went to college in the US and now works in biological engineering, making vaccines. He took advantage of the housing crisis and bought himself a house and he is a US citizen now. He wanted to confirm I voted before I boarded the plane. We both had. He recounted the story of his voting experience with a smile. When he told the poll worker, an elderly white woman, his name, “Ahmed” she said, “Oh, we had one of those earlier, such a strange name Ahmed.”

When we landed and got word of Obama’s victory, there was relief and celebration. I was greeted by all of my colleagues at the office with, “Congratulations! Did you here? Obama won!” Even my new neighbors, young, Egyptian college students said, “Congratulations!” The overwhelming sense is that Obama is and will be good for the US, good for Egypt, good for Iraq, good for the region and good for the world. With my limited Arabic skills, “good” and “congratulations” is really all I can make out.

A couple of my work colleagues have been a bit more vocal about it. They feel very positive about Obama’s (and our) victory. “Not only because he is America’s first black president and not only because he has ties to Africa but because he is a Democrat.” Several people here speak of the Clinton years as very prosperous time and want to return to that. But in my opinion people are also putting a lot of pressure on President Elect Obama to fix everything. They believe he can miraculously fix the US economy which in turn will stabilize economies worldwide, and immediately end the war. So in short, Obama’s victory is being received much like it is at home in Democratic communities – joyously and with a lot of high expectations.

I must add though that the celebrations here – or at least the ones I am aware of - are tame compared to the ones I hear and read about at home. Friends in DC and all over talk of jubilation late into the night and tears of joy watching Obama’s acceptance speech. I truly wish I was home to witness and be a part of that. Let’s hope by January I can get a TV with CNN so I can watch the inauguration – or at least find an expat community willing to share theirs.

If you can, I highly recommend going to DC for the inauguration. I was there fore Clinton’s 2nd and what a party it was!! But that’s a story for another time and another blog. All I'll say now is: Just, jump the fence and enjoy it all!!!

Some Apt. Pictures

Below are some pictures of my new flat.
Just to be clear the picture of the building is the view from my balcony - NOT my building.
My building is NOT under construction.
Also, the computer refused to upload the pic of bed Rm 2 so you'll just have to trust me that there is plenty of room for guests.

PS - I met some nice neighbors last night!

Taxi Ride

I took a taxi by myself today! OK so my friend Shaimaa called the taxi, put me in the taxi and told the taxi driver where to go. She practically pinned a note on me. OK so the note was in my purse and I had strict instructions to call her as soon as I got home. But the point is: I took a taxi by myself today!

For my part in this journey I deserve full credit for not crying or calling out once in the one hour journey home. Despite the fact that every ounce of my being was screaming,
“THIS IS NOT THE WAY HAMDY DOES IT!”
Hamdy is the school’s trusty, responsible, courtesy driver who has been my chaperone for all of my trips to Cairo. And he never gets lost and he never tries to give the passengers whiplash. But, I bit my tongue, held back my tears, and swallowed my lunch that was trying to come up again as we whipped around Cairo for more than an hour. (It only takes Hamdy 30 minutes to get me home, but who’s counting. It’s not like I have a dinner date to get home to – not yet anyway.)

Once I accepted the fact that I had absolutely no control over anything that was happening to me at that moment (which really didn’t take all that long, really), I sat back and enjoyed the scenery and the sunset. I can’t say that I enjoyed the ride cause it’s was like driving around with my sister Kristen when she’s lost. Only in this case all the other drivers also drive just as bad as she does. For those of you who don’t know Kristen, it’s like a roller coaster ride with lots of fits and starts, odd accelerations, and way too many U-turns at high speeds and where you can’t see the end of the ride anytime soon. It’s a little nauseating. But if you focus on the horizon it’s OK.

In the end, I survived and was truly thankful to learn another route home. It helped me get a better sense of where I am in relation to other parts of the city. And believe it or not I even helped the driver navigate in the last bit after he stopped 3 more times for directions. (The directions were in Arabic so I was not cheating.)

So that’s my major accomplishment for the day. What’s yours?
Enjoy!

My new Apartment

I've settled into my apartment in Cairo. It's HUGE with plenty of room for visitors. I will figure out soon how to post pictures. I have 2 large bedrooms (sleeps 6 -8 depending on how friendly you are). And a living/dining room, kitchen and balcony. The view leaves a lot to be desired but I'm happy to have the outdoor space. It's taken me a while to figure out all the appliances. I've come to think about it like camping - you have to turn off the gas when you're done cooking, you need to plan ahead to shower and turn on the hot water heater a good hour ahead and you need plenty of bottled water around. The building also has laundry facilities in the basement, which I was relieved to learn. I had fears of my delicates being air dried over the trash heap like my neighbors. It also has security and a very patient apt. manager named Housien who has helped me figure everything out as best he can in his only Arabic and my only English languages.

I have spent this weekend exploring my neighborhood and am happy to report I found a convenience store, a decent and clean restaurant, and the Egyptian equivalent of Super-Walmart. It may sound like a cop-out to some to shop at Ragab Sons aka Walmart but I think it'll take me a while to work up the nerve and the language skills to shop at the traditional sooq or open air market - where they sell flipflops along side fresh fruits and veggies and where you can buy your chickens still clucking or dressed on site for you.

I endured the stares as I walked around. And I figure they will get used to seeing me around and I will get used to them as well. No one really speaks to me yet except a few children who are brave enough to attempt, "Hallo." And then they run off giggling when it says "Hello" back.

Overall it's off to a good start. Slow but good that seems to be the Egyptian way.